Overview: Published September 13, 2026 by Robb Report as part of The Oeno Files series, this installment highlights a shift among Tuscan estates. While oak barrels remain the standard, winemakers like Elena Casadei are rediscovering terra-cotta amphora vessels to maintain unadulterated expressions of their vineyards.
The Full Story
While oak barrels have been the gold standard for aging wine for the past several hundred years, a handful of cutting-edge Tuscan estates are rediscovering a far older vessel: terra-cotta amphora. Although these ancient containers fell into disuse as stainless-steel tanks and oak barrels took hold of the wine world, some of Tuscany’s best wineries are experimenting with amphora fermentation and aging to maintain unadulterated expressions of their vineyards. What started as a fringe practice using this historical material has blossomed into a wider dialogue among the region’s most forward-thinking winemakers.
Tuscany has been home to clay pits revered for fine terra-cotta wine vessels used for production and storage since the time of the Etruscans, and many wineries still use local clay in addition to venturing further afield in Italy and Europe. For Elena Casadei, winemaker of Le Anfore di Elena Casadei, the decision connects with an ancient winemaking culture recognized by UNESCO. The second generation of Famiglia Casadei uses a combination of local Impruneta clay amphorae and traditional Georgian qvevri. Having been introduced to amphora by her father, Stefano, she says the vessels are what made her fall in love with wine.
“I find it incredible that one of the oldest winemaking tools in history can still feel so contemporary today,” Casadei says. “Working with amphorae has taught me to observe, to taste, to wait, and above all to accept that not everything has to be the same every time.” Producing a wide range of single variety wine across her family’s estates in Sardinia and Tuscany, Casadei was first fascinated by the way the same grapes could express themselves differently by changing the vessel. Stainless steel tends to offer a fresher, more linear expression; oak allows for an exchange with oxygen but can also leave its own aromatic and structural signature. Terra-cotta, on the other hand, allows the wine to evolve without imparting the distinctive aromatic influence typically associated with oak.
Production & Profile
At San Polo in Montalcino, owner Marilisa Allegrini notes that unlike oak, amphora does not impose another aromatic layer on the wine. While its porosity still allows a measured exchange with oxygen, it allows the savory character of terroir to come forward more clearly. For the 2025 vintage, San Polo no longer uses stainless steel and works exclusively with concrete, oak and amphora. Because amphora is less porous than oak, the team discovered that they could use less sulfur in the winemaking process.
Alessio Gorini, COO of Avignonesi, utilizes amphorae for his Da•Di Rosso and Da•Di Bianco IGT Toscana wines. The majority of Da•Di Rosso ferments in Tuscan terra-cotta amphorae and remains in contact with the skins for approximately three months. Meanwhile, a small portion of wine is fermented separately in stainless steel and is used to top up the amphorae once the most active phase of fermentation has finished. Da•Di Bianco ferments without skins directly in ceramic amphorae from a local producer and continues its aging in the same type of vessel, although in some vintages Gorini has had to use neutral barrels for a portion of the wine due to quantity issues.
Brand & Industry History
The practice traces back to ancient times when clay pits were revered for fine terra-cotta wine vessels used for production and storage since the time of the Etruscans. Elena Casadei notes that working with qvevri connects her with an ancient winemaking culture, one that has even been recognized by UNESCO. While these ancient containers fell into disuse as stainless-steel tanks and oak barrels took hold of the wine world, some of Tuscany’s best wineries are experimenting with amphora fermentation and aging to maintain unadulterated expressions of their vineyards.
What This Means
At San Polo, dabbling with amphora has allowed Allegrini’s team to dial down the amount of sulfur. Because amphora is less porous than oak, they discovered that they could use less of the preservative in the winemaking process. Combined with the other qualities valued in amphora—its porosity, neutrality and non-conductive nature—the experience has helped inform a larger evolution in their cellar. Starting with the 2025 vintage, San Polo no longer uses stainless steel and works exclusively with concrete, oak and amphora. What started as an experiment has therefore become something much more meaningful to them: the lessons taken from the past are now actively helping to shape the future.
Consumer Takeaway
For the drinker, these wines offer a direct reading of the grape variety without the aromatic contribution or textural sweetness of wood. Characteristics such as aroma, acidity, tannin and texture remain particularly easy to identify. At Avignonesi, amphorae are first and foremost small laboratories for learning, allowing winemakers to better understand specific winemaking choices such as the impact of whole-cluster fermentation on Sangiovese. The experience has helped inform a larger evolution in the cellar, offering clean, precise wines through time, natural settling, and careful management throughout the entire winemaking process.
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