For years, Cognac’s presence in London’s sophisticated drinking scene was a fading echo, a testament to a trend gracefully overtaken. However, a quiet resurgence is underway, driven by a dedicated cohort of experts and a renewed appreciation for the spirit’s complex heritage. Cognac, once a cornerstone of London’s elite establishments, is experiencing a slow, deliberate return to prominence.
A Shift in Focus: From Trend to Tradition
Cognac’s decline wasn’t due to any inherent limitations of the spirit itself. Instead, it reflected a broader shift in drinking habits – a preference for fleeting trends over considered enjoyment. Now, figures like Yohann Pinol, formerly a Louis XIII ambassador, are working to redress this balance, championing Cognac’s artistry and emphasizing the importance of time and skill in its appreciation.
The Rise of Cognac in London Bars
Several London establishments are leading the charge. At The Chancery Rosewood, bartenders are showcasing Cognac’s versatility, moving beyond simple applications. The Four Seasons Hotel London at Tower Bridge utilizes the spirit in both classic cocktails – the Sidecar remains a steadfast favourite – and more inventive creations. Bars such as Velvet at Corinthia, overseen by Salvatore Calabrese, are actively educating staff and consumers about the nuances of the spirit.
Beyond the Sidecar: Innovative Cocktails
The focus is expanding beyond traditional applications. While the Sidecar continues to hold its place, bartenders are experimenting, incorporating Cognac into cocktails like the ‘Hard Core’ (Calvados, spiced pear, and absinthe), demonstrating the spirit’s ability to complement and elevate a diverse range of ingredients. This move away from hurried drinking habits is a key driver of the revival.
The Role of Expertise
Crucially, the resurgence is rooted in knowledge. Individuals like Yohann Pinol are dedicated to educating bartenders and consumers, fostering a deeper understanding of Cognac’s production, aging process, and the significance of the Grande Champagne terroir. This emphasis on expertise is a stark contrast to the previous trend of prioritizing immediate gratification.
What This Means for Consumers
This trend suggests a growing desire among consumers for authentic experiences and a deeper understanding of the spirits they consume. It’s a welcome shift away from trend-driven consumption and towards a more considered appreciation of quality and craftsmanship.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
Increased awareness of Cognac’s complexity, a renewed appreciation for tradition and craftsmanship, opportunities for consumers to experience a truly exceptional spirit.
Cons:
The higher price point of premium Cognacs can be a barrier for some consumers. The shift could lead to increased competition for rare and high-quality expressions.


