The wine world is buzzing – and it’s not just about the latest vintage. A radical shift is taking place in Rionas, a Spanish red wine region, thanks to a surprising innovation: wire mesh. For years, oak barrels have been the industry standard for aging red wine, but now, a group of producers are experimenting with a stainless steel mesh called “Filo,” and the results are sparking a debate about the future of red wine. This isn’t simply a trend; it’s a potential tectonic shift that could redefine our understanding of how red wines develop and express themselves.
The Rionas Revolution
Driven by winemaker Juan Carlos López de Lacalle, the movement began with the simple, yet powerful, goal of preserving the vibrant fruit flavors of Rionas grapes. Rionas, native to the Utiel-Requena region of Valencia, Spain, is often overlooked, but it possesses a remarkable capacity for producing intensely flavored red wines. As reported by the *Vail Daily*, López de Lacalle believes oak barrels, while providing structure and complexity, contribute too much vanilla, toast, and spice, effectively masking the bright cherry, raspberry, and plum notes inherent in the wine. He’s been championing the use of Filo – a tightly woven stainless steel mesh – for years, and now, a growing number of producers are beginning to follow suit, driven by his unwavering belief in its potential.
How Does it Work?
The Filo mesh, typically constructed from a tightly woven stainless steel grid, acts as a vessel for the wine during aging. Unlike oak barrels, which impart significant flavors through the absorption of tannins and the introduction of vanillin, lactones, and other compounds from the wood, Filo allows for far more precise temperature control and significantly better extraction of the grape’s natural compounds. The mesh doesn’t ‘add’ flavors; it simply provides a neutral environment that allows the wine’s own character to fully develop. The mesh promotes a more even temperature distribution, preventing the formation of hot spots that can lead to premature oxidation and loss of aromatics. Furthermore, the physical contact between the wine and the mesh encourages a more complete extraction of color, tannins, and fruit flavors, without the heavy influence of oak. “It’s about letting the grape itself shine,” explains *Wine Folly*, highlighting a growing trend towards ‘natural’ winemaking that prioritizes freshness, immediate deliciousness, and a greater connection to the terroir.
Beyond Rionas: A Wider Trend
This isn’t just a Rionas phenomenon; the shift is mirroring a broader transformation within the wine industry. Consumers are increasingly seeking wines that are pure, unadulterated, and bursting with fruit. The desire for wines that showcase their origin, that haven’t been “cooked” or heavily manipulated, is stronger than ever. Decades of oak aging, while producing universally appealing wines, have arguably homogenized the red wine landscape. The Filo method, with its emphasis on showcasing the grape’s intrinsic character, is seen as a way to combat this and achieve this. *Decanter* notes that the move reflects a wider trend towards wines that are more reflective of their source, with consumers actively seeking out expressions that are closer to the original fruit. The increased awareness of oak’s influence on wine profiles – often seen as a ‘masking’ element – has fueled the demand for alternatives.
The Verdict?
While some traditionalists remain skeptical, citing concerns about the potential for a lack of structure and complexity, the early results from Rionas and other producers utilizing Filo are overwhelmingly positive. Wines aged in Filo consistently demonstrate vibrant fruit flavors, intense color, and a remarkable freshness. The move is a fascinating experiment that could fundamentally change how we experience red wine, moving away from the influence of wood and towards a more direct expression of terroir. It’s not a silver bullet; achieving optimal results requires careful consideration of vineyard practices, grape ripeness, and winemaking techniques alongside the use of Filo. However, the conversations surrounding Filo are a conversation worth paying attention to. Ultimately, the future of red wine might just be a little bit… meshier.
Source: https://www.vaildaily.com/news/carpe-wine-the-story-behind-riojas-wire-mesh/
