Philadelphia’s cocktail scene is experiencing a dramatic transformation, spearheaded by local bartenders who are ditching imported amari in favor of meticulously crafted, house-made versions. Driven by significant limitations imposed by the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, this trend is creating a uniquely flavorful and intensely personal approach to the spirit.
For years, Philadelphia bars faced a frustrating landscape – a paucity of diverse amari options coupled with inflated prices. This prompted a wave of creativity, with many establishments – and some passionate individuals – taking matters into their own hands. The result? An exciting renaissance of flavor.
Several small producers and bars are dedicating months to the precise creation of their own amari. At Almanac, Rob Scott painstakingly weighs and measures each component, referencing a detailed, bespoke guide. He skillfully steeps ingredients like fig leaves, yomogi (a mugwort cousin), and the tart trifoliate orange, a process demanding patience and precision. Similarly, Sean Goldinger of Percy Diner and Bar is cultivating housemade amari, while Francis Cratil Cretarola of Le Virtù is reviving a family tradition of crafting digestifs like Acqua Santa and Genziana, originating from a wedding in Abruzzo.
The focus on local ingredients is paramount. Rob Scott notes the potential astringency of nocino, explaining it dissipates with time and careful aging. These aren’t simply ‘flavored liqueurs’; they are intensely concentrated spirits, demonstrating a profound understanding of botanical complexity. The craft extends beyond just the ingredients; it’s about control – a complete immersion in the production process.
This shift signals more than just a preference for unique cocktails. It represents a rejection of limitations and a powerful embrace of local expertise and artisanal production. As Philadelphia’s cocktail community continues to evolve, these homemade amari are undoubtedly playing a crucial role.
