Overview: A panel of experts conducted a blind tasting of 137 red wines from the Alentejo region in south-central Portugal, evaluating entries from DOP Alentejo, IGP Vinho Regional Alentejano, and DOP Alentejo Vinho de Talha. While the judges noted high technical quality across the board, the panel questioned whether the region has achieved a true sense of identity and typicity.
The Full Story
Ines Salpico, Matthew Forster MW, and Valentin Radosav evaluated the wines during the session. The results showed that 137 wines were tasted, with two receiving Outstanding ratings and 44 earning Highly recommended scores. The remaining wines received Recommended or Commended ratings. The judges observed that for a long time, Alentejo reds fell into two categories: robust, plush, fruit-led wines with wide commercial appeal and rustic, frank wines destined for local consumption.
The tasting indicated that the region has come a long way since the early 21st century when investment began to pour in. A new generation of producers started experimenting with different approaches, increasingly concerned with brand-building and international commercial viability. However, the panel noted that most producers still seem to be pursuing their idea of what an Alentejo red should be rather than allowing the fruit to give necessary clues. The judges observed a recurring reliance on heavy-handed use of oak, though some producers were forging a different path.
Production & Profile
The entry criteria for the tasting included specific designations: DOP Alentejo, IGP Vinho Regional Alentejano, and DOP Alentejo Vinho de Talha. Alicante Bouschet and Trincadeira were identified as the grapes that performed best during the evaluation. There were also intriguing examples of Moreto, Baga, and Syrah noted by the tasters. When undisturbed by overuse of wood, the wines showed a truly particular character with fruit that was at once ripe and teasingly green, cradled by a resinous, meaty texture.
Tasting notes highlighted specific profiles across the region. For instance, Dona Maria’s Grande Reserva presented black cherry compote, plum, and rose mingling with wet leaf, tobacco, and Oolong tea. Fitapreta’s Preto Cuvée David Booth Grande Reserva featured wormwood, eucalyptus, and tarmac framing black cherry and plum. Other entries like Herdade do Rocim Amphora Tinto showed cranberry, raspberry, and red cherry gaining leafy lift from eucalyptus and greenwood.
Brand & Industry History
The region has seen significant evolution since the early 21st century when investment began to pour into the area. Specific producers reflect this history; Robert Reynolds set down roots in Estremoz in 1850, while Winemaker Júlio Bastos joined his father in 1985 to help manage Quinta do Carmo. The path forward might involve a return to something closer to those old, rustic wines consumed locally, embodying the harsh contrasts Alentejo is made of – a place of robust, austere elegance and unassuming generosity.
What This Means
The quest for international commercial viability has raised questions about whether producers are asking the right questions regarding regional identity. The quality is really high, but expressiveness and typicity remain unanswered. The path forward might involve a return to something closer to those old, rustic wines consumed locally, embodying the harsh contrasts Alentejo is made of – a place of robust, austere elegance and unassuming generosity.
Consumer Takeaway
With their sweet-sour quality and herbal, spicy twist, Alentejo reds have something in common with Italian reds and go well with Italian food. Pairings include Tuscan food, roasts – especially pot roasts – stews, beans, and baked pasta dishes such as lasagne. Pork – particularly porco preto – would also be a good call: dishes such as carne de porco à alentejana or cozido would make a great pairing for these robust wines.
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