Overview: The Stewart family established Pinot Noir production at Quails’ Gate Winery in the Okanagan Valley with their first vines planted in 1975. Originally hailing from France’s Burgundy region, this variety has spread to cooler climates across Canada and globally, earning the nickname “The Heartbreak Grape” due to its susceptibility to rotting on the vine.
The Full Story
International Pinot Noir Day is celebrated annually on Aug. 18, providing a focal point to track the grape’s progress in Canadian vineyards. The variety’s thin-skinned and temperamental nature presents significant challenges, particularly its tendency to rot in wet or humid weather. Despite these hurdles, winemakers note that many other grapes, including nebbiolo, riesling and sangioviese, share a notoriously fickle nature.
Craig McDonald, Andrew Peller Limited’s executive vice-president of operations who oversees winemaking operations across Canada, noted that all varieties can be heartbreak grapes. The learning curve for producing quality wines from pinot noir is significant, as over-ripeness causes the resulting wines to lose fragrance and flavour, tasting like cooked jam. Originally from France’s Burgundy region, where almost all red wines are made with it, the variety spread to cooler wine-growing regions in Germany, Australia, New Zealand, the United States and Chile.
Production & Profile
The grape is characterized as thin-skinned and temperamental. If the grapes get too ripe, the resulting wines lose their satisfying fragrance and flavour and end up just tasting like cooked jam. Current market offerings demonstrate a diversity of regional styles emerging from Canada. For example, Fielding Rock Pile Pinot Noir 2024 offers a compelling mix of juicy red fruit, pepper and savoury notes with 12.6 per cent ABV. Four Shadows Pinot Noir 2022 presents a plush and fruity expression with sweet berry and cherry flavours, while Unsworth Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023 is described as a true cool climate pinot with a lighter body.
Brand & Industry History
The Stewart family planted its first pinot noir vines in 1975, which helped establish the grape variety as one of the flagship red wine varieties in B.C. Today, it’s widely cultivated in regions around the world, with varying degrees of success. The roster of names to know has expanded significantly across British Columbia, Ontario and Prince Edward County.
What This Means
A key indicator of its potential in Canada is the steadily increasing number of wineries that are now creating compelling wines. At the recent National Wine Awards of Canada, the pinot noir category was the third largest source of medals, after chardonnay and red blends, with 112 medals awarded to the 148 entries.
Consumer Takeaway
The news highlights specific recommendations that show the diversity of regional styles emerging, providing details such as ABV and drinking windows for direct purchase or local availability. Each passing vintage brings more successful bottles to market, with options ranging from Fielding Rock Pile Pinot Noir 2024 to Unsworth Vineyard Pinot Noir 2023.
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