Overview: James Hunt Farm in Merced, California, has established a 14-acre agave plot intended for future spirit production. This initiative responds to the Sustainable Groundwater Management Act (SGMA), which restricts groundwater supplies and encourages farmers to adopt low-water crops.
The Full Story
James Hunt planted 14 acres of agave on his secluded farm last year with the original vision of building a craft distillery. The backdrop for this project includes the Sierra Nevada mountain range in the distance, though the cultivation strategy has expanded beyond alcohol. Hunt noted that while spirits were the initial idea, research into the plant revealed its suitability for agave syrup, agave inulin, biofuel, and sustainable aviation fuel.
The decision to pivot toward agave is driven by groundwater overdraft issues affecting the San Joaquin Valley. Josh Viers, a professor of civil and environmental engineering at the University of California, Merced, explained that groundwater gets pumped out without replenishment, causing wells to go dry and land to sink. California legislators enacted SGMA in 2014 to stabilize water use, creating local agencies to gradually limit groundwater extraction over a 30-year drawdown period.
Localizing the agave supply is becoming enticing for Valley farmers as traditional row crops face water restrictions. Hunt observed that growers are excited to plant something new rather than continuing with almonds, walnuts, or pistachios. Omar Ramirez, a grower in Le Grand who previously planted almonds, also shifted to 100 acres of agave after profits tanked and SGMA came into focus. Ramirez, who has a tequila line called Luna Llena based in Mexico, views the crop as a way to bring his cultures together.
Production & Profile
Hunt’s agave took root a little over a year ago, with nearly all plants surviving the winter frost despite some dried-up tips. The first batch is not expected until four to six years after planting. Hunt is currently testing three different variations of the plant: Espadín, Weber Azul, and Yolo, which mature at different rates.
The cultivation method focuses on water efficiency. Researchers classify agave as an “SGMA-ready crop” because it requires little water and a lot of heat compared to almonds or pistachios. Farmers are making cuts in irrigation, watering a few inches of soil on crops such as agave instead of a few feet of soil on an almond tree.
Brand & Industry History
After all, for centuries, Mexico has capitalized on distilling agave into tequila and mezcal. Hunt recognized this historical precedent when he envisioned the project, noting that agave is one of these desert crops that is obviously from parts of Mexico. Ramirez noted that opportunities in the United States are different than what is destined in Mexico, though his business roots include living in Mexico for a few years as a kid.
What This Means
A report released in June by the Public Policy Institute of California found that as much as 900,000 acres of irrigated farmland in the San Joaquin Valley could be taken out of production as a result of SGMA. As farmland is fallowed, land repurposing on large, interconnected areas may boost the benefits of certain alternative uses, such as habitat restoration or solar energy production. Flexible cropping options can help ease fallowing pressure and put the valley on a path towards beneficial land stewardship, even under challenging conditions.
Consumer Takeaway
James Hunt is willing to go out on a limb for this because he believes in it, describing farming as a gamble. He has only ever lived on this one plot of land and will do whatever it takes to keep it. While the first batch of spirits is not ready until four to six years from planting, the farm aims to develop the agave economy through various products including spirits, syrup, inulin, biofuel, and sustainable aviation fuel.
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