Overview: Copenhagen’s Balderdash presents a savory reinterpretation of the classic Brandy Alexander known as The Mushroom Alexander. Owner Geoffrey Canilao developed this unique elixir over 14 years ago, blending local game ingredients with botanical gin and coconut cream.
The Full Story
The intimate watering hole in Copenhagen operates within a thriving craft cocktail scene, embracing the Danish concept of “hygge.” This feeling of coziness and conviviality encourages patrons to slow down and enjoy life’s simple pleasures. Drinks at the venue are quoted at 150 krone & a smile, reflecting an approachable yet elevated experience.
The bar-chef trend has allowed game meat staples like moose and venison to cross over into the cocktail world from Scandinavian restaurant menus. Balderdash features a fascinating mix of local flavors such as dill akvavit alongside exotic ingredients like ube and sea buckthorns. One of the most popular elixirs is the savory take on the classic Brandy Alexander, which challenges traditional dessert drink perceptions.
Production & Profile
To transform the vision, Geoffrey Canilao determined the precise mix of mushrooms including trumpets, morels and chanterelles. These fungi are dried and sous-vide infused into gin, adding other botanical elements to the spirit. The right cacao liqueur was found to balance the savory profile, while coconut cream replaced dairy milk to transform the drink into liquid lusciousness.
The garnish consists of grated deer heart marinated in juniper, spice, and citrus. After dehydrating, these tiny bits are delicately spattered on top. The first sip starts with luscious mushroom smack that coats lips with umami, followed by a deep chocolate invasion with an edge of pepper.
Brand & Industry History
Owner Geoffrey Canilao was inspired to create the cocktail over 14 years ago after sampling a pastry with chocolate and mushrooms. He noted that combination was very novel and earth-shattering, pushing the envelope on savory and sweet. The deer heart component was sparked by an associate who trains chefs to hunt and advocates eating what you kill from nose to tail.
What This Means
This release represents a distinctively adult-like flavor mix that battles between savory and sweetness, functioning as either an appetizer or dessert. Canilao utilized components that go to waste, such as heart and fat, remembering a salad he ate with shaved beef heart on top. The end result is a wild ride for taste buds where the deer ticker gives meaty fullness that swirls around the mouth like an amuse-bouche in a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Consumer Takeaway
The drink offers liquid lusciousness with a nutty coconut finish that is not too sweet. Despite its creamy appearance, the cocktail provides a savory twist on the Brandy Alexander with mushroom gin and deer heart garnish. It delivers a deep chocolate invasion with an edge of pepper for those seeking a unique experience.
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