Overview: Wine professionals have identified several underrated red wine varieties as high-quality alternatives to popular grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. These selections are highlighted for their unique flavor profiles, ranging from light-bodied and peppery to spicy and high-tannin.
The Full Story
While Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Merlot remain three of the most popular red wine grapes, there is a whole world of lesser-known fruit to explore. Some offer unique flavors while others mimic more-beloved styles while adding just a touch of something intangible. Sommeliers always appreciate a well-made Malbec, but they also love to champion these underrepresented varieties. A dozen professionals were polled to find out which red wines have been sleeping on. Most come from smaller regions of prominent wine-producing countries, and all are worth seeking out if interested in expanding palate and knowledge.
Pineau d’Aunis is a little grape variety from the Loire Valley in France. It typically makes a charming, light-bodied wine with bright red fruits, flowers, and a dash of white pepper on the finish. David Butler, owner of Le Caviste in Seattle, notes that when featured here at Caviste, it pours like a waterfall and flies off the shelf. Scott Anaya, owner and manager of CRUSH Bottle Shops in Anchorage, Alaska, highlights Nebbiolo. Wine Industry professionals are well aware of Nebbiolo’s versatility, as it drinks well when young and has the ability to age gracefully for decades, as many Barolos do.
Francesco Grosso, wine director at Ai Fiori in New York City, loves Tintilia from Molise, Italy’s least populated and also totally underrated region. It makes wines that are spicy and energetic and pair perfectly with grilled meats or the region’s local sharp cheeses. Laurent Vernhes, founder of mva.wine in NYC, champions Languedoc reds. He notes that the region hosts some of the oldest vineyards in the entire country, dating back to the third century BCE. Elizabeth Dames, wine director at The Perlant in Atlanta, points to Trousseau as the grape hiding in plain sight all over the wine world. She states that the Jura is where it shines: pale, peppery, all sour cherry and wild strawberry with an earthy, almost sanguine edge.
Hannah Harrington, sommelier at Smithereens in NYC, discusses País from the ancient vineyards of the Bío Bío Valley in central Chile. Roberto Henriquez, the vigneron of his namesake domaine, champions centuries old vines. Tegan Passalacqua, the winemaker at Sandlands, bottles an expression of País known as Mission in California that is dense and prolific. Lauren Feldman, owner and wine director at Valley Bar + Bottle Shop in Sonoma, Calif., selects Lambrusco. She notes that while it has had a resurgence, generally it is considered to be cheap, fruity, inky, and specific, but there is really an incredible range and some quite high-end versions available.
Adele Corrigan Wade, general manager of 13 Celsius in Houston, recommends the Sierra de Gredos region in Spain. There are 100-plus year old Garnacha vines out in these mountains, some abandoned, that are grown at high elevations on granitic soils. Matej Manev, sommelier at Marlow East in NYC, believes Beaujolais is the most underrated red wine out there right now. He notes it completely lost its way during the mass-market Beaujolais Nouveau craze, but a legendary crew known as the ‘Gang of Four’ turned things around by bringing back organic farming and low-intervention winemaking. Henri Schock, co-owner of Bottlehouse in Seattle, chooses Mourvèdre. He states it deserves way more love on its own, noting they’ve been pouring a carbonic Mourvèdre from Latta Wines chilled for the last two summers. Darko Petrov, wine director at Aspen Hospitality Group in Aspen, Colo., picks Nerello Mascalese from Mount Etna, Sicily. A great example is Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, which consistently showcases the grape’s vibrant red fruit, minerality, and age-worthy finesse. Steven Flores, sommelier at Lei in NYC, selects Greek wines made from Xinomavro. He notes they are high acid with noticeable tannins and savory flavors complemented by bursts of bright red fruits.
Production & Profile
Technical specifications vary significantly across these selections. Pineau d’Aunis is typically served at cellar temperature and is great in spring and summer. Nebbiolo has the ability to age gracefully for decades, as many Barolos do. Languedoc reds come from appellations with great soil including Minervois, La Clape, and Côtes du Roussillon. Trousseau in the Jura offers a pale, peppery profile with an earthy edge. País is ethereal on the palate with bunches of fruits and violets. Lambrusco di Sorbara is considered to be the most elegant variety, making a lighter, more mineral, and ethereal Lambrusco. When produced in the traditional Champagne method, the resulting wine easily rivals the fancy French counterparts. Sierra de Gredos Garnachas are grown at high elevations on granitic soils and receive the ‘Burgundian’ treatment. Beaujolais is budget-friendly luxury that is packed with bright fruit and crisp acidity. Mourvèdre brings structure, spice, savory notes, and a little bit of wildness. Nerello Mascalese offers remarkable quality and value with vibrant red fruit, minerality, and age-worthy finesse. Xinomavro wines are complex, earthy, and spicy with a rustic, sun-dried tomato note.
Brand & Industry History
Historical context varies by region. Languedoc started mass-producing cheap table wine in the 19th century, nearly destroying its reputation. Since then, some appellations have worked to rise above the fray thanks to a generation of innovative, almost eccentric winemakers who decided to turn things around. Beaujolais lost its way during the mass-market Beaujolais Nouveau craze, but a legendary crew known as the ‘Gang of Four’ — Marcel Lapierre, Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Guy Breton — turned things around by bringing back organic farming and low-intervention winemaking.
What This Means
These selections highlight a shift away from mass-market trends toward site-specific wines and indigenous farmers. Lambrusco is considered to be cheap, fruity, inky, and specific generally, but there is really an incredible range and some quite high-end versions available. The Sierra de Gredos region should be snatched up by savvy wine collectors before the rest of the world catches on and the prices soar. Beaujolais is now a budget-friendly luxury that is packed with bright fruit and crisp acidity.
Consumer Takeaway
This collection offers the drinker an opportunity to expand their palate and knowledge by seeking out smaller regions of prominent wine-producing countries. From bottles best served chilled to those with tremendous power, these reds provide unique flavor profiles ranging from light-bodied and peppery to spicy and high-tannin.
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