Overview: Al Lucero, approaching his 88th year, remains a central figure in Santa Fe’s food and beverage landscape. He co-founded Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen and the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta while authoring a definitive guide on the city’s signature cocktail.
The Full Story
Lucero’s career began with nearly three decades in broadcasting, where he worked as a rock-and-roll DJ before managing radio and TV stations across the country. He launched an independent TV station in Santa Fe in the early 1980s, though the project failed and was sold to partners. Following that venture, Lucero and his wife Laurie decided to enter business for themselves in their hometown during the mid-1980s.
The couple initially considered opening a fajita restaurant but found liquor licenses difficult to acquire. The opportunity arose to purchase Maria’s, which came with a full liquor license. They added fajitas to the menu of New Mexican specialties and began building extensive tequila and margarita selections. Lucero spent nearly three decades running Maria’s before selling it in 2013.
The restaurant became known for its commitment to quality spirits. While most margaritas at the time were syrupy, frozen machine varieties made with poor-quality liquor, Lucero traveled to Jalisco to learn about tequila production. The establishment decided to serve only 100 percent blue agave tequilas in their drinks. This dedication led to a unique presentation featuring photos of every margarita with its tequila bottle alongside the menu.
A publisher from Ten Speed Press suggested Lucero author a book based on the signature drink, resulting in [Maria’s] Real Margarita Book. Robert Redford, a frequent patron, offered to write a foreword for the first version published in 1999. There were three different versions of the book in total.
Production & Profile
The establishment initially prepared drinks with fresh lime juice but eventually switched to lemon juice after outstripping the availability of the fruit. Taste testing confirmed the switch was viable, and the restaurant maintained a selection of tequila brands by far greater than any other location at the time.
Brand & Industry History
Lucero co-founded the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta in September 1991 with Mark Miller and Gordon Heiss. The event was created to showcase a richer food scene beyond tacos and enchiladas, starting with 20 restaurants and a similar number of wineries. The first year resulted in a loss of $10,000, which Lucero personally signed the note for. By the third year, the debt was paid off.
More than 30 years later, the festival has grown to a five-day celebration with nearly 100 wineries and 65 local restaurants. After selling Maria’s, Lucero spent almost a decade handling public relations and marketing for Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits before officially retiring in 2024.
What This Means
The evolution of the Fiesta demonstrates a shift from an afternoon event dismissed by a food editor as elitist to a major five-day celebration. The Grand Tasting remains a signature event, featuring wine tastings, dinners, and culinary tours. Lucero plans to write about growing up in Santa Fe, specifically focusing on life in the 1940s beyond the Manhattan Project era.
Consumer Takeaway
The 35th annual Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta runs September 22–27. The Grand Tasting is scheduled for September 26 from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Fort Marcy Park, featuring wine tastings and dinners with some 80 wineries and 60 Santa Fe restaurants showcasing their best. Readers can explore the legacy of the city’s favorite cocktail through the book written by Lucero.
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